Lovage

Lovage (Levisticum officinale) is a robust, hardy perennial herb in the Apiaceae family, native to southwestern Asia and long naturalised in European gardens. It grows 150–200 cm tall, producing large, dark-green leaves with a bold celery-like aroma and flavour. All parts — leaves, stems, seeds and roots — are edible and intensely aromatic. It thrives in well-drained, moisture-retentive soil in full sun to partial shade and reliably overwinters outdoors in Nordic conditions.

Growing

Start seeds indoors 6 weeks before transplanting, sowing 1–2 cm deep in trays or deep modules. Seeds germinate erratically; keep substrate moist and at 10–15 °C until germination, which takes 10–20 days. Prick out seedlings once large enough to handle and grow on in cool but frost-free conditions. Transplant outdoors once night temperatures stay reliably above 5 °C and the risk of hard frost has passed. Set plants 40–60 cm apart in rows 50–70 cm apart. Direct outdoor sowing is possible but not recommended due to uneven germination — indoor raising gives far more reliable establishment.

Care

Water regularly to keep soil evenly moist, especially during dry spells; lovage dislikes both waterlogged and bone-dry conditions. Feed with a balanced fertiliser once established each season. Stake plants on exposed sites as they can reach 2 m and become top-heavy. Remove flower stalks promptly if leaf production is the priority — flowering redirects energy away from foliage. Cut the plant back hard after the first flush of leaves to encourage a second crop of fresh, more tender growth. Mulch the crown in the first winter; established plants need no winter protection.

Harvest

Begin harvesting individual outer leaves once the plant is well established, cutting stems at the base. The flavour is strongest before the plant flowers. Harvest continuously throughout the growing season — a single established plant yields abundantly. Seeds can be collected when the umbels turn brown and the seeds detach easily. Roots may be dug from older plants in autumn once top growth dies back. Older plants gradually lose some intensity of flavour and benefit from division every 3–4 years.

In the kitchen

Use fresh or dried leaves sparingly in soups, stews, stocks and sauces — lovage replaces stock cubes effectively due to its umami depth. Chop leaves into herb salts, compound butters and dressings. Young stems can be eaten raw like celery or blanched as a vegetable. Seeds are used like celery seed in baking and pickling. Root can be grated into slow-cooked dishes.

Storing

Fresh leaves keep 3–5 days wrapped in damp paper in the refrigerator. For longer storage, dry leaves at low heat (below 40 °C) and store in airtight jars away from light for up to 12 months. Leaves also freeze well — blanch briefly, pat dry, and freeze in portions. Dried seeds keep for 1–2 years in sealed containers. Root can be stored dry in a cool, dark place for several months.